43. Climbing volcanos - Merapi and Mnt Bromo!

I haven’t written in such a while.. Java feels like a life time ago.

Although I can’t say that I’ll ever forget the moment I arrived at the bottom of Merapi (the highest volcano in Indonesia) Fuck me sideways (sorry mum but that’s the only expression that does this moment justice.)

There I was, casually walking in – hungover and with maybe three hours sleep in the last twenty four. I’ve climbed the odd mountain before, hell I’ve climbed Table mountain – I can do anything!

The woman in the corner is nervous, she’s rubbing her hands, saying,”I do rock climbing as a hobby in Malaysia but I’ve never done anything like this, I’m sure I’ll be fine. It’s going to be fine. I love climbing. But I shouldn’t have done that research last night. Ooooooh no. That was a bad idea. But I’ll be fine, we just go slow.”

I am visibly confused. She is a strong, fit and capable rock climber who enjoys hiking.. what is she so worried about??

One of the guides turns to me,”Do you have a jersey?”

“I’m wearing one.”

“Something warmer? It’s four degrees up there.”

My eyes don’t really widen – but in that moment they swallowed him up.

“I’ll be fine.”

Well, ten minutes into this hike – more like climb – I was not fine – not one bit. I can’t explain just how deep my suffering cut.. haha! But seriously I was dying a slow death, and had to keep pushing and pushing until I honestly thought I would just die – right there – and didn't mind entertaining the idea one bit.

We were also hiking in the dark – and had no idea where we we’re although in retrospect this was a very good thing as if I had actually looked up, ahead at where I was heading, I would have stopped before I began. No question – I was in no condition for such a feat – never mind the hangover or lack of sleep, or dehydration – what about the fact that this was the first time I had done ANY excersize of substance (I’m not counting walking to the shops ) So to say I was out of my league is putting it mildly.

I’m not going to go on about this torturous climb but to say that 8km’s up – yes up – never stopping to walk straight – the climbing is endless, back breaking, chest wheezing, foot swelling stuff – I couldn't continue. I had a kilometer before I reached the crater rim, and I couldn't  Goodbye legs. I crawled behind a rock and waited for two hours – believing I would die of frost bite. The African drama queen that I am:) After two hours the other two came back. Fuck my life and we headed down – 8kms.. my knees we’re breaking and I had blisters on both heels.

Although I must say – the sunrise was sensational and going down you see what you accomplished the night before and wow. It’s godda be the best view I've ever seen.

And to be honest I didn't mind not reaching the top – I was just so damn proud of my lazy ass.

Once we got to the bottom – we had to eat a quick breakfast and get back on the road. One nights rest before.. wait for it.. hiking Bromo. I was I a bit of a panic as I had already paid for the Bromo to Bali trip – so I had to go – swollen knees, blisters and all..

Anyhoo – when we got to Bromo we we’re told that a mountain next to it is where the best sunrise view is seen so we should go there first – I opted for the jeep J And then the bloody jeep dropped us at the bottom, “Hold on buddy I thought we we’re going to the top!?” “No can.” So began a 4 km hike up, and then 4km’s down – the sunrise was spectacular but honestly.. my body was shouting all sorts of profanities at me. We then head for Bromo and began that hike – and halfway up I jump on a horse. Yup – work the thighs instead. Bromo was more like a volcano to me – black dust and a smoking crater – if you step one step to the left – you’re in. Eeeeek. Moment like that make me feel more alive!

After Bromo we we’re taken to have a quick shower and some food and then off to Bali.. OMG. I have never been so happy to have three days over in my life before. Bring on beaches, books and cocktails. Anything that involves doing nothing, and then resting afterwards.

xoxo

42. Hello Indonesia, you friendly person you!

I must admit that I had gotten rather tired with certain aspects of Asia – for all sorts of reasons – beyond the normal ones that communication barrios provide. In Thailand I speak Thai so this has no longer been a problem but annoyances with the people and culture increased – this is not to say that I don’t love my village and the people that live in it – I do. But. Ah. I’m trailing off into what could be a twenty page essay here, so I’ll just say that when I arrived in India my tolerance levels for certain things were a lot lower, than say.. my sister’s – having just come from Cape Town – and by the time I left India (Yes, I loved it) I was exhausted and what had become an unusually low tolerance level for me was no longer existent.

So I arrived in Jakarta, Indonesia.. and person after person, from the assistant at the airport, to the police outside, to the taxi drivers, the hostel receptionist, the street vendors and train station salesman.. all were the most friendly, down to earth, honest and sweet people I had ever met. I have been overwhelmed by their darlingness, yes that is a real thing hereJ I found myself immediately put at ease, wafting along the streets, smiling at people and getting smiles in return. Having conversations with different local people – a taxi driver, who didn’t try to get me to get a lift somewhere, he did ask if I needed to, I said no and so he dropped it. I asked for directions and he gave them to me, not telling me it was too far to walk but writing down the street names instead. I bought a top from a woman – for a price that didn’t need to be bargained, and then had a little convo with her – and not once did she push me to spend more money. All the people I have met here so far have been so helpful and kind. People talk about the hospitality in India and yes I have seen it, but I felt that it often came with an agenda. That is not the case here. I was sitting eating a millie corn with two vendors and two foreigners. 

One of the Dutch boys mentioned he would be keen for a beer. Hearing this, the vendor (I forget his name..) asks, ”You want a beer my friends?”

“Do you know where we can get one?”

“Yes. One moment.” He finishes up a corn. “I go get for you. ”

“No no no no. You don’t need to do that.”

“No problem. 30.000 rupiah each. ” – this is the exact price, he asks for no more.

He calls out to his friend, a waiter outside a nearby restaurant – asks for three Bintang’s and within minutes the waiter comes over to our side of the street with beers. We tried to tip him and he said “No no it’s ok. Enjoy.” We offered the vendor a beer – he declined and didn’t even ask us to buy another miellie.. and this kind of thing happens a lot here. The men are respectful and I feel safe on my own at night – no one asks where my boyfriend is or if they can kiss me to remember me. Most of them just smile, say “Hello” and tell me they like my colorful J

I could go on about the people forever but I suppose I should mention Borobudur J – what a place! I spent a night at the “Honey hostel” in Jakarta – which was filled with smiles and sweetness (bar one really annoying dude from Toronto.) then I got on an overnight train to Jogja – central Java – and from there a taxi to Borobudur. Now – at the immaculate and organized train station I met three lovely people, Tomas from Belguim and Aneta and Jo from Sweden. They ended up ditching their original plans and joining me for sunrise at the Borobudur temple – after which we all checked into the gorgeous (yes gorgeous – wooden floors, high ceilings, rice paddie views..) hotel, “Lotus 11” Went for a boozy lunch, hired some bikes and rode around the town.. This place gets lots of visitors – but usually just for the temples and then they leave – but it deserves time spent there! Anyhoo – we had a wonderful time – and a good few wizzo’s and laughs with one of the managers into the wee hours that evening!

The following morning my new friendies left – they only had one night left in Java and needed to move on wards to see more. I was tempted to join but my yes click wanted to stay and soak in some more of the place - which I did – I rented the bike for another day, did some washing, read my book, explored the town, sat with some local women and ate lunch, checked out the market and had quite a few Bintang’s with the staff that evening J The following morning I woke up bright and early for the sunrise trip to a view point in the town – were a group of us sat drinking coffee watching the sun slowly climb over volcanoes..there’s a first for me! Later that day I set off for Jogja – had some more amazingly wonderfully sweet moments with friendly fabulous people J lol.. and met some more Swedish girls, explored the Pramadan temple grounds – well worth the trip! Helped out some locals with their English assignments and then had a drunken reggae party with a bunch of people from all over the world, we all sat drinking merrily talking about crayzzzzeeee things - thanks to the wacko Australian and his pouring and pushing tactics:) We danced to live reggae jams and laughed at each other’s stories.. It certainly has been a long time since I’ve had these kinds of evenings and I forgot just how much I missed them! Looking forward to the rest of the month! Free and merry in Indonesia, huge smiles!!

One last thought - everything is so fucking green - no wonder they're so happy here - green being the color for the heart chakra - they're just filled with love!

Cheers all!!

41. Bye bye India!

So - off we set - making our full circle return to Delhi! It was comforting ending our trip where we started - our last two nights; Nunu, India and I..

People throw the term around - shop till you drop; and i've certainly used it before, but never have i ever -- literally done it - until that fantabulous day - the 30th of March 2011 - it was glorius! :) It felt as if we we're on some game show where you get told to go! grab! Whatever you want! It's yours! :) Although without the mad rush that a competition would surely bring! Oh! We did have fun alright and by the end of it we could barely speak (perhaps all the bargaining had taken it's toll on our voice boxes..)

Delhi is a shoppers paradise and you really do have to stop yourself or you'll fill the plane on your way home.
:)

Now - my darling big sister and i have finished our long awaited sisterly love adventure..haha! I have to get used to her not being at my side 24/7.. I think it'll take some time to adjust - I miss her terribly and know without a shadow of any doubt that we became so much closer than we could ever imagine becoming; learning, laughing, growing and relying on each other like we've never had to do before! A trip of a life time, that's for sure!

We started our trip as sisters and left as friends. :)

Righto! Next up - Indonesia! :)
All the love in the world,
Mushi
xoxo

40. Just Jaipur.

Just Jaipur..

 Jaipur!! You must go! Friendly faces everywhere!
You must get to Jaipur - AMAZING shopping - you find real gems for incredible prices!

You just have to get to Jaipur – the elephant festival for Holi is there! It’s going to be sensational!

You just have to get to Jaipur for the marktets – the people, the place – the capital of Rajastan!!

Even our hotel messaged us “We can’t wait to celebrate Holi with you!”

Well.. off we set – Ready to have the best time – ready to celebrate Holi with wonderful people, shop at cheap but beautiful markets, ready for the elephant festival (we had basically planned our trip around this) and definitely ready to see the pink city!! Yay!!

Well.

Pink city? I think not. More like a peachy brown. The only Pink thing about this place that is the Pink sunset I’m looking at right now.

Markets? Ummm. Yes there is the Hawa Mahal market – made for tourists and filled with the rudest Indians “Do you have chai?” “NO.” who are selling average things at ridiculous prices. Since we have seen many a market – with the same things – it gets easier to get a reference by finding something you know the price of and asking how much it is.. you get an idea.. and wow. This street was ripping us off on a whole new level. We thought we had befriended a driver in the hotel (another stupid mistake) who seemed to understand what we were looking for, but no. no no no no. He took us to some tourist factory that sold carpets and such for outrageous amounts. I saw some scarves we had bought in Delhi and asked how much they were and was told,”1000 Rupees.” I could not believe it, they are just over a hundred in Delhi so I walked out and he came running after me,”Ok. 200.” I then told him to kindly fuck off as there was no ways I would by from someone who had just tried to royally fuck me over. FUCK that. I’m sure you can hear by my language that I am less than amused.

So as it goes, we tried every market and shop – eventually getting hold of Sian’s friend and asking where she goes..she buys things in India and sells them in S.A. So we were fetched by a lovely Rahul, who played thumping Elvis and Amy Whinehouse music – which was a real pick me up – screeching “they tried to take me to rehab but I won’t gooo” in the bustling traffic in IndiaJ And he took us to places that, for us..we’re on the pricey side and not exactly what we had in mind..And in the end it seemed as if Jaipur is good for those who want to shop in bulk for much cheaper prices and then re sell..but for the “straight” shopper... Ah! So as far as shopping in Jaipur went – It was just.. hugely overpriced and for shit..shit shit. Paper Mache (and badly painted ) camels – which, by the by, could not even stand up straight – were nearly 400 rupees. And we were so obviously being ripped off which I just felt was insulting my intelligence. Yes I know they put the prices up to make money off us tourists, I expect nothing less and we are in fact just a dollar sign to them – but to this extent? It was unreal – and certainly the only thing it was going to ensure was that my money would stay in my pocket.

As for the people, my god. Rudest. Rudest. Rudest. Not just the shop keepers but people left right and center were trying to rip us off throughout the time we were there – and after a month in India I had all my wits about me and no man was going to succeed in this endeavor – and when they found this out they were not pleased but then.. my god.. the flirting would start.. are you married? Where is your boyfriend? You are beautiful, I like you, you are special, you want to kiss me so I can remember you…? ah!!! FUCK OFF! And we couldn’t get away from this, not in the streets, not in the markets, not in the taxi, or tuk tuks, and very sadly - not in our hotel – Hotel moonlight palace. There are two guys from Daarjeling that work there and are lovely – of coarse.. but then there are others.. and the manager is a disgusting disgrace for a human being..he never left us alone, sliming all over us whenever he could… and we were trying to be polite – but I am not one to take a slime ball whipping his juices all over me for too long – and I let him have it, but did he stop? No. So gross. 

You’re so beautiful.

Thank you.

Do you have a boyfriend?

Yes.

Where is he now?

Meeting me in Delhi tomorrow.

What about today?

I’m sorry I am not interested I only want one man and I already have him.

But I like you. You are beautiful. Can I kiss you?

No. Please just leave me alone.

But I like you –

Please, just go away.

Oooh I like you. You are strong woman. You are beautiful – I really –

JUST.. FUCK! OFF!

Ah! It’s exhausting.

Most men in India ask you all about your personal love life and they want to be with you etc – it’s so invasive but  you learnt to deal with it – eventually. You come up with different stories about your husband – you almost start to believe that you have one! I can imagine a man I would actually like - coming up to me one day and asking me my name, ”Hey what’s your name?” “Megan” “You are really beautiful” “Listen..I’m in a really good place spiritually right now, so please fuck off! Namaste.” J

On the subject of men in India.. HAPPY HOLI! 

Now, we had a great time for Holi – spent with some friends all splashing color on each other – having a beer or two and chatting and laughing, and dancing and playing Holi J It was fun and we were lucky to be part of a big group of people where that was possible.. music and all sorts.. but then because we were part of this big group we all thought, against all advice.. that we should go venture off into the streets and see what this Holi was all about. Well, it was interesting.. but ya. Not a safe idea.. drunk Indian men groping you and attacking you just to touch you with their colors..we had a few guys with us thank god but it still wasn’t safe enough and a little over an hour later we got tuk tuks back.. It’s not really anyone’s idea of fun, but it was interesting to see what the real deal is all about.. and we had a faaaaantastic time together playing out our own Holi in the garden! And the day before – at the elephant festival – where there weren’t any elephants – go Jaipur – she’s on a roll! J 

I’ll never forget sitting there and thinking back to when we planned our trip and Sammer saying to us, ”Is that elephant thing really important?” haha. We revolved our entire trip around it. Never the hoo.. we were about to leave and decided to give it one last try – Sian and I figured that we just had to “get in there and get involved” so we did – and so began a unbelievable afternoon – it just goes to show it’s what you make of things – nunu won the womens’ water pitcher race – she had to go up on stage and get her trophy Elephanti prize and everythingJ I participated in the tug of war – Indian’s VS foreigners and the Indian’s won 2 out of 3 – of course J We danced with Rajasthani dancers on stage, throwing petals everywhere and watched spectacular fireworks, and bands and all sorts of wonderful Indianness – it was loud, and colorful and filled with smiles and fun! We got all silly with the color and just had a jolly good time, finishing it off at our place, on the terrace – tossing color around amongst friends – the manager put an end to the festivities by doing his thing – eeew. But all in all it was an amazing 6 or so hours! LOVED all the acts that performed! The following day was the Holi-fun-day I mentioned we had with Caprice and a bunch of others, and we were finished by the end of it! Nunu and I also missioned off to see the amber Fort, which was really pretty but didn’t come close to the city palace in Udaipar . We rode elephants up to it – which both of us regretted doing as soon as we did.. sometimes you just have to switch yourself off to things here in India, they don’t have the same respect we do for animals..but yeah.. I wouldn’t do it again.

All in all, I’m so happy we were in India when Holi was celebrated; it was lots of fun, and interesting to see. We we're also very lucky to also have a big festival on top of everything else (elephanti's or not it was so much fun!) I’m happy we got to meet new people and have fun with Capi, and of course Sian and I are together in India so no matter what - it was good and we look for the lessons in it all..the biggest is to have no expectations, especially here in India – because you never know what your gonna get.

Different strokes for different folks. Everyone experiences things differently – depending on what you like and what you’re looking for..and we were told mixed reviews about Jaipur..mine however  is not so mixed..here it is:

Jaipur – well.. it’s just Jaipur. A peachy brown, industrial city. Nothing more. Expect to see the beautiful amber fort..and then..nothing.. and you'll get.. well.. you let me know when you find anything else worth mentioning. 

You win some, you lose some.. at least we’re going back to a place we know and love – I can’t wait to get back to Delhi and our wondrous Relax hotel!

Yay!! 

xoxo