47. A Cambodian dream!

Please do bear in mind (esp mummy dearest as i know your dying to see great piccies of Angkor wat - My cam battery died so Kristina took the pics - am getting them off her cam tomorrow but figured id just go ahead and keep up with the blog - will post pics on facebook of Angkor's magic as soon as i get them! Although there are a few here from Angkor - they are nothing compared to what came afterwards..:)

I don’t think I have ever been in love before. In deep, true love.. According to a couple of fortune tellers I’m gonna get me some before I’m thirty, so I’m looking forward to that. Especially because I think I HAVE just fallen so deeply, truly and madly in love.. although not with an actual person, with a country. Her name is Cambodia and she is lovely – the voice of an angel! When I say that I literally mean the peoples’ voices here – little kids come up to you to sell the odd thing or two – and it’s usually a post card – 10 to be exact. And they will no doubt say,”Heeeey Laydeeee.” And then proceed to count all ten postcards. “One, twoooooo, threeeee, fouuurrrr..” dragging the numbers out in the sweetest, softest drawl.. They are very sweet and polite. I really have welcomed any conversation. Today I went to the market and I was looking for a razor – this market is unlike one I’ve ever seen, just stuff piled up everywhere – different sections of coarse – you have fresh fish on your right, t – shirts on your left and roll on behind you! In any event, this darling little person – and they really are little people, with little voices; said, ”Heeeey Laydeeee. You want something?” “Hello! I’m looking for a razor.” And I mime what I want. She gave me some veet but I really do just want a razor so I declined and tried again to explain, she then looked at me with her soft little eyes – and said, ”Noooo layydeeee. No haaaaave.  I don’t know ‘Razor’

.” As if she had never met the weird dude on the side of the rasta hangout I was looking for. And another lady told me she loved me, and thought I was very beautiful – of coarse she is selling something, and said it to very person coming by, just as they do everywhere else I’ve been to in Asia – but this just sounds better. I’m happy for any Cambodian to tell me they love me and think I’m beautiful – and with that charming accent I’m inclined to believe every word!

Anyhoo, at the moment the elections are happening so it’s all very interesting to be here for that – the night before last there we we’re at this bar in the wee hours of the morning asking this Cambodian chap why he didn’t vote and then encouraging him to vote for the recovery party! Suddenly we sat back and laughed.. here we were pissed and getting very involved and into the whole political vibe over here..This Cambodian man just smiled at the two of us, and patiently listened to our facts and encouragement. J I’m learning so much about their history – I never really knew much about it – ho chi min trail and all.. these poor, darling, innocent people just got so damaged and are still being so damaged because of other evils they had nothing to do with (merely caught in the cross fire) it’s a heart wrenching story. And it certainly shows how one big event can have a ripple effect and cause other things to happen – like the civil war in this country caused by the Ho chi min trail. I went to Dr. Beat "Beatocello" Richner’s concert in town at the childrens hospital – the hero of a swiss man, is running the Kantha Bopha Foundation and is doing such incredible things – giving these people free health care of the very best standards. And how ridiculous is it that people like Obama refused to give any money because he said the people should be paying for the services? Paying? What the fuck is he talking about, they don’t have any money! And if he knew – which he obviously does – about why these people are in this situation to begin with –SURELY.. he feels for them and wants to try make some of it right? I find it so unbelievable that anyone could refuse to help. Fuckwad. 

It was also said that they believe that a countries hospital facilities should match that of the country and people. So therefore a Cambodian person should get treated in a slum? This is only something a rich person would want – and not just any rich person, one who doesn’t give a shit about trying to make the world a better place. Aaaah. Anyway it was a very sad, informative and beautiful evening. He played the cello very well and he has a great sense of humor. J We also went to the landmine museum which was horrific but also again, very interesting – a wonderful center that helps victims – houses and schools them in different programs – and also (obviously) works very hard in finding them and disarming them – they recon there are still over 13 million! When we got back into our tuk tuk our mood was anything but light. But it certainly evoked some interesting discussion.

Driving through the outskirts of Siem Reap has been my favorite thing to do here – it is so unbelievable green, and to see all the local children swimming in the rivers, riding their bicycles and playing touches in the fields and the adults at the fruit stands or playing cards under their houses – they have the most darling wooden homes on stilts, and underneath they hang out by day.. Also cycling is something I love love love – you really get to take in all the sights and when we did Angkor Wat – riding along, wind in my face – which is needed since it was so bloody hot – riding through the roads – looking at the trees and all sorts of green lushness – I’m glad I’m here in the rainy season as this color green is really saturated on a level I just..just ah!! No words – but I didn’t know it existed. All I think of, every time I see a big square patchified section of luminous green is that old dude sitting but naked on the rooftop in the Brittish version of Death at a funeral, saying, ”why is everything so fucking green?” Makes me smileJ

I met a lovely, very intelligent person – Her name is Kristina and she’s Canadian. She knows a lot of a lot so it’s nice to listen away and try to soak it all in.. she’s also a great laugh so it’s been a winning combo. I met her in Bangkok – waiting for the bus to Cambodia – and we nailed them scammers at the border – saved 17 dollars in doing it so we we’re well pleased ;) Speaking of scamming – wow – never have I ever been in a place where even the people are telling you about it.. hostels will tell you to “Call direct. DO NOT let the driver call. He will say we are full or that he can’t get through.” There are posters about it, and even the locals are warning you about other locals which could in fact mean that the warning is the scam itself.  I gave a woman 10 dollars for a pack of cigs – and she gave me change as if I had given her five!! And when I questioned this, it was just,”Noooo laydeeee. You give fieeeeee.” And it was done. I was so incensed but then remembered that you live and learn and next time I will just make sure I give the money in front of someone else or something. Living and learning :)

So back to Angkor Wat – what whaaaat? :) This place is out of this world – we, that is Kristina and I did our first day on bikes – I went through three bikes :) First the chain came off so we went and exchanged it, then I rode over a nail and not only did the inner tube go flat but the entire tire shredded so we went to a mechanic on a side road to get it fixed.. And then my original bike was wheel locked by someone when we got back so I had to get a tuk tuk to take me and the bike home :) But it was all rather eventful and sure added to the whole days experience – we did a lot of back and forth travelling – getting lost and sorts and sooo exhausting on the bike, sweating like pigs! But it was a real hoot! And like I said before, with the wind on your face, and greenery at your sides – you can’t really go wrong – it was a wonderful day – and the temples and ruins were incredible – moss padding the stone walls, and little pathways that lead you to what could be a prayer room, a bathroom or a bedroom – who knows? Some are massive, and some are much smaller – but all have carvings that will blow your mind. We just don’t get to see this kind of stuff being made any more – so much work.. and it’s not functional – I mean some of the carvings could be as they tell stories of kings and so forth but others are purely done because they are pretty – on the inside, the outside and even on top! We spent a good few hours walking the walls in wonder.. And then rode our bikes back to the city – at night – that was one of the many moments I have had while abroad and thought,”Oh, if mummy knew she would not be pleased.” J 

But it was a fun experience – certainly an exhausting one – and naturally we went to pub street for some 50 cents beer to reward ourselves for such stamina and stuff! We then woke up the next day and redid it all again – well not ‘redid’ but finished – it is an old city so it does take a looooong time – especially if you go the slower route and do it on a bicycle. The second day Jack – a funny Brittish lad (from the wrong side of England – the west that is, not a London boy. These are his words not mine.) He’s a funny dude, and the second day went very smoothly – I got a better and proper mountain mike – I was not going to take any chances with them other wheels! And riding with gears is a must (the day before mine didn’t work – kristina’s did – her bike and her were great friends so she kept it on :) Anyhoo – day two was much easier and smoother and we got home just as it got dark. So that was better too! Still an exhausting day but a fun one, we did it nice and slowly, stopping for pineapple sticks or free beer in between (yup you heard me – we did get lunch at the place though :) but we we’re offered in true style, “Hey layyyyydeeee. Freeeeeeeee beer.” And the food was great too – oh I do love Cambodian food – so far my favourite which is odd since I adore spicy food and it’s not spicy AT ALL. But it’s creamy and rich and so full of flavor – I think I just must do a cooking course while here – they have lots of one day ones all over – maybe when I’m in Phnom Pen – id love to cook like this forever and ever! Not that I’m a fan of cooking but if this Amok business was to be the result I’d be happy to!

On our third day a new bird joined the three of us (I forget her name, god I’m terrible :/ ) and we went of to Ban Sarai which is a good hour and a half away to see some more ruins and temple things – then off to a nature walk (8kms) – to get to a waterfall which was really pretty – carvings under the water – very cool but had to race back to be able to get to the landmine museum on time so we did feel like we were in the amazing race.. pushing past the odd Chinese tourist, ”Sorry, excuse me, gotta..get. Thankyouuuu.” Jumping into the tuk tuk and pleading with him to hurry! J

I have actually only partied one night – and that was after all these three days were done – in the first two we did 80 kms on the bicycle so it's a job well done i think :) Definately time to celebrate and get into the giggy of the night – but unfortunately since the elections were on the next day much was closed – although we did find a spot and had a real jawl – last beer at 8am so that was a good night then J Which basically threw the next day away although it was nice to just do nothing after the last few.. and today I did some shopping – I just couldn’t resist some of their pants – they are so soft!! So comfy!! Hmmm.. so yeah some light shopping and some lunch and planning for the next place – which is Battambang – stoked! Gotta get to bed and get some zzzzzz bus in the morning!

Muchos love to all!

46. My darling village - i carry you in my heart.

Time to say goodbye.. the past year has been incredible - so sad to leave, but happy and excited for the new adventures to come.. and as the good ol Dr Seuss says,"Don't cry because it's over,smile because it happened."

“This place Is not for everyone. Not for most people. But it is for you.” – Pelin, my Turkish delight, about Klong Sao, the village within the village area Bangkahn.

And how right she was. To live that way, with the local people, adapt to their culture, speak their language, kill spiders and scorpions on a weekly basis, eat their food (trust me it is not Pad Thai.) One time I was eating something, and it tasted odd so I asked what is was, “Arey na?” (Pi Oi mimes a rabbit) I immediately spat it onto my plate. Pi Oi protests,”Mai!! Baby aroy.” (NO! Baby rabbit is delicious.) OMG I just tasted a bunny. I’d rather drink a boiled cockroach – which I did and walked around looking like id just eaten shit – which is just what I felt like. Or the time when they were eating buffalo and I declined and said id just stick to the other meat, and was then presented with lumps of pigs fat. “Hmmmm aroy mak mak.” Very delicious. :/ That day was actually the first day I said righto! I’m going to buy some bloody fish – and did, and then when Pi Oi took them she just threw them into the pot, ”Kap kun ka.” (Thank you) I was standing there all horrified asking why she didn’t gut them first. What a stupid question. You don’t waste a thing.

But in saying this, I did love most of the food – very spicy – just up my alley and juicy – Miss fatness herself is sitting on my lap to prove it.

Anyhoo, I didn’t have to try. To try to be ok with all of it, I was more than ok with it – I loved it. We were the perfect fit, right from the start. It all came so naturally to me.

But that is not to say I didn’t have my moments of loneliness – homesickness overcame me a few times – being in that village made home seem that much further away – as if it might be on another planet and I might not be able to get back. And the sponge bathing thing was probably my worst part. I missed the comfort of a shower – any kind of shower – cold water only? MAI PEN RAI!! (no worries)But thankfully, for the most part, more than for the most part – it was perfection. And it taught me so much about people and life – more than any of my travels in between could possibly touch, even in India.  I think living in a place as opposed to visiting it will do that though. As selfish as this may sound – I know that the biggest thing that I learnt and take from Klong Sao and all the wondrous people who live in it – is a love and understanding and appreciation for and of myself - that I didn’t have before I got there. I’ve always been a confident happy go lucky person but in the last few years in Cape Town I lost an inner confidence, and while outwardly I was still intact – the picture wasn’t so pretty from the inside (as far as myself worth and perspective went)

Thai people have a “no skaam” J attitude. They will tell you exactly what they think of you, inside and out – and drill it and drill it – luckily for me they thought I was a bit of alright ;) Except for getting fat on white rice – they had lots to say about that, “Mai pen Rai Megan Uan. (pats my cheeks)  suwai.” Don’t worry that your fat - your face is beautiful. Or when Pi Oi told me that if I was thin I would be beautiful, and when I asked what I am now she said, fat but don’t worry tomorrow we diet. The running joke. And when they saw pictures of my sister they looked at me with such pity.. ah!! The audacity! But then in that moment of wondering where the biggest head bashing rock could possibly be sleeping, I realized I didn’t care.. it didn’t matter – after all the comments on my hair – they like clean cut straight hair – not by birds nest (as my students so graciously put it.) and don’t even show them my hippy outfits – they go to town on them - Joan Rivers would be impressed. My freckles weirded them out and if you forget to pluck you eyebrows or don’t bother to shave your legs – just don’t bother leaving the house. But your skin gets thick, and in turn you’ll find yourself feeling rather amused by it all. And this is a very good thing, and I certainly didn’t change for anyone – I didn’t wear sparkly tops filled with sequenced writing saying things like, ”Rush me to the general hospital.” Lol.. one of the Thai teachers wore one like that but of coarse she had no idea what it said. Or paint my face white and glue glittery plastic nails onto my fingers, wear huge wedded spice up your life heels, or massive bows on my head. I stayed me, feral as I may be to them – and I guess if I wasn’t gonna change for them, no one’s got a home of changing me in the future ;) I know who I am and am comfortable being that person, even if I’m the odd one out or the ugly duckling as they sometimes thought my style to be ;)

But they sure did love me, and like I said – they drilled that love all day, every day until one day I found myself thanking them without feeling uncomfortable with the compliment, just accepting it graciously and moving onwards.. suddenly I thought, ”Wait now what just happened?” I didn’t flush, or get all weird –more than that - I believed them. And in seeing myself through their eyes, I got my “ness” back. I feel comfortable within myself – more than I have ever felt in my life, I’m confident and happy – calm and super relaxed – at ease.. I know, love and understand myself more than I ever have before. I’m happy. I am so grateful for my life, ah! I love my life, and I love being me in it! :) It took a village to get me to this place, and for that I am eternally grateful!  Now it’s up to me to remember and hold onto everything they gave and taught me – and make no mistake – I will be back there in a few years to see my friends and family again.

I honestly love them all with all my heart – it was devastating to say goodbye.. I was gutted. We all were, but as my mum said to me, ”Isn't that wonderful? Imagine not feeling that way..imagine that.” And she’s quite right. Feeling this devastation speaks volumes of the experience I’ve been lucky to have had there with them all. A life changing, funtastical and heart stopping adventure of a life time. Many people have said to me, wow you have really changed their lives and brought them so much joy and so forth..and sure.. I know I did, but they did so much more for me.. everyone inside and outside of the school, parents and brothers and sisters of students, the local cooks and vendors – all my friends.. and those damn kids.. ah! My babies..  i have no words do describe everything i got out of my time with them! All these people taught me so much about love, life, gratitude, satisfaction and kindness.. I hope i gave them a smidgen of what they have given me because it's a beautiful thing! It is because of them that I am a stronger, happier, and more capable person – who now knows EXACTLY what I want to do with my life - but that’s a whole nutha essay;) so I won’t go there today J

Today..I’m going to go to Cambodia. And keep a promise I made to one of my darling friendies in Klong Sao. Pi Ry told me to “Garuna stay same Megan Pi Ry Ru.” – Stay the same Megan that she knows. “Kit same grandmother te sanuk sanan same anuban.”

So going into this next adventure I intend to do her proud – think like a granny but play like a baby..

Looking forward to it J