39. Mystic Jaisalmer

Mystic Jaisalmer

Wow.

The Indians love to use this word. Wow. Just as much as South Africans use ‘hectic.’ 

Oki doki..soooooo…Mystic Jaisalmer hotel – what a place! WOW J This hotel has got to be the finest place in India, certainly the best we have been to! It’s breezy inside, clean and is honestly a home away from home! On our first day we had lunch on the rooftop overlooking the fort and that evening – after a day missioning around, doing a bit of light shopping, checking out the ‘town’ - doing our best not to get stained with color – holy is in the air.. trying the ‘special lassies’ and then getting lost in the evening.. AND having a cow charge at us – which I must say was a rather nerve racking experience – but some strange Irish man helped us find our way – and all was well.. we got all fresh and cozied up in the lounge on a bunch of cushions, and ate a delicious cashew nut curry while we watched the most sensational Bollywood movie – “Ddlj” The man with the heart will win the bride.. 

The staff at Mystic are one happy family – only too pleased to welcome you into their beautiful home! Mr Ashraf is the head of this household and is destined to be the king of all hostels in India! He floats around smiling and chatting, giving all of his guests his undivided and individual attention- all the while running the show.

A group of us were in the desert (note it had taken a good few hours riding our camels to get there) and suddenly – there appeared Mr Ashraf.. Dressed in white, he glided towards us,”Hello..” J He stayed with us for dinner – eating by the fire, chatting about life and meditation.

I personally have never been one to sit and hum my way through an hour, although I understand the appeal to others. But Ashraf was talking about meditation as a part of your life – an action – you can dance! In fact he encouraged it, “There is no one here to care, so when you feel like it, get up and dance. If you fall, it’s ok – the sand is soft. So just dance.” As long as you are present in whatever you are doing, THAT is meditation.

We had great conversations about life and how much we can learn from the people who come into it, even just for a fleeting moment, or perhaps for a two day venture into the desert :)

It was such a ball, a group of us from all over the world – chatting under the stars, eating spicy delights and drinking chai tea!

I learnt a lot about the Indian culture which was incredibly interesting – to be able to sit and natter with two new friends! Surbh and Anjani  are both from India and I had such a nice time with them – 
we stayed up into the wee hours chatting about different cultures, communities and customs, different social and political issues – like the transgender community here. I can’t get into that right now it would take up way too many pages but it was fascinating. Still is :)

Riding a camel is certainly an experience I will never forget. We unquestionably had enough time on the camels which I was thrilled with since I had heard that so many tours gave such little time.. we we’re lucky! It’s rather uncomfortable and of course you have to get a feel for this foreign animal but it’s just so much fun!

They have such individual personalities’. I did not connect with my initial camel – I can’t remember his name and I guess that shows how close we got. During our tea break, which was after an hour or two into the trek - I asked to change – because try as I did – I could not connect with him – he was not interested in being my friend – no matter how much love I gave – I got nothing in return. So when our tea break was done, I swapped camels with one of the guides “Sonny” and got “Akia” who was a sheer gentleman! He just went about his business, mozing along – and he loved my cuddles and my sweet coo’s in his ear. We were the perfect fit – right from the start. At one point we passed a little village where some female camels were roaming around and Akia when nuts for them! Their tongues blow up – right out of their mouths – it’s rather disgusting but the strangeness of it all is wonderful . I like having to push myself through moments when I’m out of my comfort zone and feeling nervous or uncomfortable.  And I had my moments on the camels, even with Akia, when I had to breathe my way though a minute or seven.

Never the hoo I loved everything about this experience! So far my best in India! Delicious food and beautiful company. The guides on this tour just love their camels and just love their desert and are more than happy to share it with you. They really were the cherries on top – singing and playing the drums from whatever plastic bottles and pots we brought – this little boy Sameer sang a few (on demand) solo’s for us - the voice of an angel!

Jaislamer itself is a very small place, and can be walked in a day, the fort is exquisite and I got an aovetic massage that trumps any kind I’ve ever had!

Nunu and I met an American girl Caprice on the train from Jodphur and we were all going on the same train to Jaisalmer, booked to stay in the same hotel, for the same amount of time, and to get on the same next train to the same place for the same time again.. and so the three of us hit it off and because the ‘mixed vegetables’ 

Right now as I write, the five of us, Sian, Caprice, Surbhi, Anjani and I are all sitting in our train compartment – chatting about our camels personalities and the Holi festival we’re about to enjoy in Jaipur. Eeeeeek! I’m so excited for that, but right now I’m just so in love with Rajastan – and Jaisalmer in particular. And the goats. The goats and I understand each other.

 As Surbhi said,”You and the goats really connected.”

The following quote by “Rumi” is at the entrance of Ashraf’s Mystic Jaisalmer:

“Being human Is a guest house. Every morning a new arrival. A joy, a depression, a meanness, some momentary awareness comes as an unexpected visitor. Welcome and entertain them all. Be Grateful for whoever comes because each has been sent as a guide from beyond.”

 

36. I'm engaged!! to.. Udaipur, lake city! :)

I have never had such a breezy airport experience – or I should just say ‘general’ travel experience. The airport was empty – and quite – we just sailed on through – the flight just the same – flying in India – yay! J And the Jodphur airport was a darling little thing – just one room J From there we were picked up by our pre arranged taxi – The driver was such a sweetheart – but more on that later J The drive to Udaipur was beautiful – it actually reminded me a lot of driving to Zulu land when we were little. We arrived at the Dev Raj Niwas Hotel – on the lake! This lake does everything for the place – cools it down by day, and twinkles it by night. Boats come and go.. and a few people wash their clothes on the banks.

The owner of the hotel, Dev, was sensational – and should be given an award for being the most fabulous host of hosts! After checking into our palace room..oh how fab J - we sat on the terrace drinking Gin and Tonics, chatting to Dev and his friends. It was the first time we had done this in India – here we were – chillin’ like we chill with our friends back home – laughing, drinking, smoking, chatting – openly and without any reservations or judgments’. It was incredibly refreshing to be able to be so free. We didn’t feel any of the ‘weirdness’ that we have felt with men on this trip. We were just a bunch of friendlies – and when I asked why the Western tourists in Udaipur walk around in string tops and all seems fine. We had not been in a place where there were many westerners like we saw here – but even when we did see the odd one in the distance before – everyone was covered, but as Dev put it, ”Udaipur see’s many tourists, so we understand that they are not prostitutes.”  J

That night we were taken out in a whirl wind of fun! We all piled into a car and whisked off though cobbled narrow alley ways, with French music thumping us all the way to the ‘Sheradin’ where we danced the night away – at one point I heard, “It’s Britney bitch” and screeched out in excitement – and danced for my Prince Andrew back home! It was so much fun – I was hoping to have a big night out in India, but the places we have been to have not been places for such a venture.. but we got one alright, and when we least expected it so that made it all the more fantabulistic!

The following day the gin had done some serious damage to my exhausted body.. we had been pushing through the month – seeing, walking, climbing, more walking, shopping, learning, and burning the midnight oil on more than a few occasions, travel travel travel.. and on that Friday we were running on very few fumes – and for an unknown reason – didn’t eat – we had two coffees, a samoosa and a packet of chips – the whole day – and then filled up on g n t’s.. not the brightest idea but a real hoot.

Although on Saturday I wanted to jump off the terrace and into the lake.. death had become me.. but of course – in true ‘Sian and Megan style’ I pushed and pushed – went missioning around the palace – which is much like the Taj and it didn’t lose its beauty even though I vomited right there. Such is life :/ Dev brought me some coconut water later on which really sorted me out and gave me the push I didn’t have to get on the boat for a sunset ride..hmmm so beautiful..and then watch the Rajistani dancers/puppet show – which was so much fun! The women are amazing – one in particular was running around with ten pots on her head! This show had all the bells and whistles!

After which we had a late dinner with Dev on the terrace – a glass of red each, served with their specialty “The chicken steak sizzler” Potatoes stuffed with cheese, juicy chicken and so many veggies – magnufique! Dev paid for everything, again. He really was so wonderful to us perhaps because he was a love sick puppy – he had completely and utterly fallen, head over heels.. in love with me. I just laughed. He never told me to my face, or made me feel uncomfortable in any way – he’s a gentleman..he just quietly pined, and eventually spoke to Sian. He fell in love with my free spirit when he saw me dance. I wonder what he would do if he saw a whole bunch of us hippies stomping ourselves stupid in the mud. Haha. He so wanted me to stay but alas I am not interested –he’s far too romantic for my taste – too much of a gentlemen – but a great catch for so many other ladies out there! If you want to be treated like a princess, go go go! Your prince is there! Just make sure you dance like you’re on acid ;)

Oh! Our on our taxi ride from Udaipur to Jodphur we had the same guy again Vicky and his brother Rudhra joined us. We had such a fun road trip, stopping in stalls for chai tea, listening to traditional rajastani folk music, and chatting about all sorts of jelly tots.

“Are you sisters?”

“Yes.”

“From a different mister?”

ahahaha “yes.”

“Oh. Your family is very dangerous.”

J lol.. we had a fun ride – trying different Indian snacks on route – at one point we ate ladies paan J It was massive and so much to chew but interesting.. Sian loved it..me? Hmmm. It was interesting. It made us very sleepy – we floated into the train station – buzzing, spices style J

Udaipur was bliss – art everywhere – wonderful stores with sweet shop owners – who ask you to come and buy things but don’t hassle you Varanasi style..Rajastan is so much easier than the other parts we’ve travelled thus far. The people are chilled and much more friendly. We didn’t get any strange stares, and there are women all over the place – everything is much MUCH cleaner (that's the biggest under statement I've ever made) and the place is more relaxed – it seems coming here we said goodbye to the chaos and hello to a very tranquil place, stress and hassle free.. I’m loving Rajastan so far – and so looking forward to the rest of it! So far everywhere we have been has been soooooOOOO different from the previous place, but we have been moving far and wide so perhaps now that we are still moving but sticking within Rajastan - they will all have something in common and If this is the vibe that threads through.. I’m stoked!

xxxx

35. Where east meets west..

Kolkatta – Where East meets West.

Wow – women walking around the streets – such a pleasant change! In Delhi, we found ourselves walking amongst men, men, men..and then more men. But here, in Kolkata – women were roaming freely, and some (definitely not all but enough to notice) were wearing jeans and t shirts. No one would stop and stare as if they’re seeing some foreign species for the first time and wondering what we’re are looking for on their Planet ”India” It was rather refreshing to have this western spin on India in the way that we saw in Kolkata.

Yes there are street vendors selling quick on the go dishes, but here, next to it will be an 'Oxford books' and to the right of that will be two women selling strange items – from toilet paper to plastic dogs with bouncing heads, and in front of that is a Giovani’s with a couple of real dogs around it. A coffee day store next to a fruit vendor..and so it goes on..

There are no tuk tuk’s in certain parts of Kolkata. There were where we stayed but they don’t drive to certain parts. Instead they have the sweetest old yellow and white taxi cabs – which just add to the city’s appeal!

The market and bustle is still there, but just a walk down the street and you can watch a cricket match at the local park :) we did - albeit for about fifteen minutes - never been too into sport :) but was cool to see :) After which we went to the Milenium park – and boy! lol.. What a sight we found. It was something out of an old movie – couples everywhere – but seriously, only couples spread out in pairs along the banks, kissing and stroking each other, hugging, and cuddling, some walking in pairs holding hands under an umbrella, others whispering sweet nothings into each others ears all while this soft and rather romantic music played through the speakers – all dotted around this “lovers lane” It was the weirdest sight. I've never seen anything like it. But the music was beautiful, the scenery (the view of the river and all) was beautiful, and I suppose, so was all the love in the air.

Kolkata is a place where you can get that beer in the dark room with the blinds down - Where I pulled out the batgamon set and was told to put it away at once as it was illegal to play games in their bar?? Weird. But you can also drink a cocktail in a busy restaurant with beautiful - and bright lighting – in full view of the people! yay! :D You can go to New Market and do lots of cheap shopping or you can shop in expensive shopping malls down the road, eat off the street - the egg, veg panner rolls were soooooo yummy! Or you can treat yourself which we did on our last night :) It has to be said that it was one of the best meals I've had my entire life (and of coarse i can't remember the name:) But we got served by men wearing turbans, it’s all about the turbans you see ;)

Kolkata  certainly has a sophistication about it – a western influence that makes it a place where us ‘westerners’ can relax more so.. Not that you can't relax in India - that wouldn't be any fun:) but we can sit with a cup of coffee and have a cigarette and no one will care , no one is gawking for days and no one will come up to you and ask you a million personal questions. You are more camouflaged in a sense :) 

This is not to say that you can let down your guard completely as the strange crazies’ are still lurking around any given corner – we were walking home and were followed by this Indian man asking us if he could be our boyfriend or service us in any way. Eventually he came right out with, ”Can I come sleep with you? ” Ew. Another man flashed me his penis – so gross. So yes you still get the weirdos – but less so and oddly enough most of this has become so normal by now – I walk past a naked Indian child having a wee on the pavement and I think nothing of it, a fat half naked Indian man comes up to take Sian’s cigarette and she just hands it over as he mumbles some crazy, and we think nothing of it. A weird women hassles us with sounds of child labor and we smile and think nothing of it. We see a dead dog next to the book store, or a painted person blessing the skies and we just think nothing of it, this has become our new “normal.” What is normal anyway? Clearly it’s all a matter of what you get used to, perception..hmmm.

Oh! Come to think about it, we did not see one single cow. Not one. Now that my friends, is not Normal!