34. Bubaneswar - "Friendly faces everywhere"

Well, another long ass (delayed) train journey arrived– this time in sleeper class. Don’t book this class, just don’t do it. We could have had a relatively uncomfortable and weary journey ahead of us but Lady luck was on our side as we were put in a booth with a lovely Indian family, Mother, father, son and daughter – playing cards and eating their packed dinner.. a man, his mother and his baby girl were our neighbors’ – and so our little section was safe and rather sweet – it was the first time we had been with a woman on a train – and the first time we had seen a family vibe in the way that we know them to be.

But one booth down, all types of crazy was going on, a woman was shouting at the roof – cursing the man on her left who just sat there rolling his eyes, he’s obviously heard it all before. It’s crammed in this section, people walking past selling chai tea, and all sorts of, some rather fishy - snacks, some don’t have beds and lay in the hall way – women beg for money, others – like the drag queens – are far more inventive and come past touching people’s heads and in return get twenty rupees a hit, as one man explained, “He is a gay.” I obviously had gathered as much, so I gave a nod. He continued, “So he is special. We believe the gays are special, if they bless us, it is very lucky for us.” Hmmm. India never ceases to amaze.

Arriving in Bubaneswar we were greeted with smiles on peoples’ dials! We merrily – and rather wearily made our way to our hotel – The Gouri Cottage – which was right in the heart of the old town. We freshened up and set off to explore – I suppose that’s what happens when you’re travelling for a shorter amount of time – you mission – no matter the exhaustion – you shower it off and get some caffeine to boost and go forth and get what you can J That day was such a pleasure – the people were all so friendly – we stumbled into a little village where we were welcomed with open arms – although we didn’t dare get too close as they all had a nasty skin disease which I was not about to catch. But they were very hospitable – and the place was so pretty – a lake with old buildings curling around it… Oh! I forgot to mention we were accompanied by a Russian man who was off his rocker on Opium. We eventually – and politely – ditched the Nutter and continued on our temple scouting mission, which led us to finding a treat of note called Katchorhi..oh yum yum yum.

We also went to the Nandankanan Zoological Park. We were so looking forward to our “Lion and Tiger safari” and were thrilled to find out that it was only fifteen rupees to go (that’s two rand fifty.) “Is this a joke?” It was not so we paid and walked to the section, and there.. Awaited.. our bus. A bus. Barred up maximum penitentiary style..and the Indians’ all cramming inside.. blowing whistles and horns, ready for the safari.. A party prison safari was about to commence! We sure do have it good in Africa – this was not what I would call a safari – not in the slightest – we drove past two lions and a tiger – had a look – the Indians’ screamed and roared at them and threw their water and juice onto them to try get more of a reaction. Heck, one very polite looking woman in her sari had her face pressed against the bars and was roaring at the Lion – it was extraordinary.

Naturally we were less than impressed with such behavior. But it was interesting, and for the rest of our day there we noticed the disrespect the people had for all of the animals – they really do have such different relationships with them than we do at home – here they cage them, own them, use them for everything that they can – some of these poor animals like the horses are pushed and pushed – merely seen as a vehicle..nothing more. And at the zoo there is no awe or wonderment – no calm collection, forget about an ounce of respect. We also contemplated their lack of space in this country – there are so many people, and they are all on top of each other, pushing for more room and shouting to be heard. This is their way, they are used to this – but for us it is a whole different story – when we were on the bus to Pipalli and Puri (both amazing places just outside of Bubaneswar) we were all squashed into the bus and no one makes space for anyone  - you just cram yourself in, push for it. Space is not something that springs to an Indian’s mind..Neverhoo it was an experience all right – I even smacked an Indian boy over his head for throwing juice at the tiger, ”What’s wrong with you!? Don’t be so stupid.” Clearly the corporal punishment at my school is having an effect on meJ

Oh! I must tell you – we went to the beach in Puri – oh what a sight! It was like a carnival – camels walking around – carrying people of course, men swimming, women watching from the beach in their sari’s – one or two swam in them – children building sandcastles, candy floss being sold everywhere – colorful kites being flown, all sorts of rides and things going on – it was like no beach I’ve ever seen before. Then we decided to go for a beer – and eventually found a place but got put in a dark corner of the room with the blinds pulled down – such a drag but we were amused – you’ve got to just see the funny and all will be merry!

 We went to caves and markets – and temples, and town missions – we walked what felt like the whole earth during our time there – back breaking stuff I tell ya! And on our last evening we found an oasis, a little piece of heaven – a quiet – tranquil temple – where I can honestly say that I felt so at ease and in the presence of something special and right there – which is what made this place so magical, was this little box with fairy lights – where we sat and ate our first Veg paneer rolls – delish! Two little shops, a sweet and suuuuuper friendly old man and some cows to keep us company..

 it was the perfecto ending to the chapter, Bubaneswar – friendly faces everywhere!

                                                                             xoxo