32. Varanasi Shock Therapy!! ;)

Varanasi is an in your face city – that surprises you with every blink – so much information gets thrown at you! You look left and see a small boy throwing rocks at a pigeon, look right and see a little boy having a number two.. turn a corner and see a group of people massaging and fanning a man who has not eaten in five years (he has given himself to god) Watch out! A monkey is trying to steal the charm off your bag! Look behind you, a little girl needs to get past – she’s fetching the morning milk. Move out the way! A cow is stampeding through the alley way – oh not again..You’ve stepped in some shit. What kind, you can never be sure – scrape it off – look up! Dead bodies are being carried through – follow them to the Ghats on the Ganges River and watch the people who are not just bathing, but dancing, rubbing and scrubbing themselves in their holy Ganges water. Turn around and see a dog eating left over body parts that the fire was unable to burn and the black mud has not yet sucked away.

Naked men – covered in white powder walk along the banks, some sit and get stoned, others drink chai tea..bulls sleep, goats roam, women sell beads and children play..a man meditates and another begs for money..Little square cubicles have been built on the banks – for women to change in and chant their prayers – oh Varanasi - there is something beautiful in all your fucked up glory..

This holy place lives and breathes their religion in a way I have not yet seen. They go to their temples every day and spend hours praying and worshiping, their entire lives revolve around it. Not to mention swimming in and drinking the Ganges water.. When we were on the boat for sunrise (and it has to be said that that particular, luminous pink sunrise was – so far – the best I have ever seen! Pure Magic!) Anyway – we asked what the two huge pink wells were for – and the answer was that they pumped sewage from the city into the Ganges. This was said in the most casual manner – not a hint of concern..you could see us westerners thinking, ”What!! That’s terrible! Why?” But he didn’t even shrug it off –to him there was nothing to shrug off at all. It reminded me of a conversation I had with Dada, who runs the Yogi Lodge where we stayed. “It’s not about the religion. It’s about the belief. Think about these people – they bathe in the water and believe it heals them, but the reality is..well..the reality doesn’t matter – it’s all about what you believe.”

And in Varanasi – I have seen this belief he talks about – and it is mind blowing. I’ve never seen anything like it before. Nor have I been in a place that is in constant conversation – this city does not sleep – not for a moment – day and night it is buzzing with chitter – chatter. It’s a busy busy place – filled with heaps of energy – four full days there felt like a week – in a good way through – our days were jam packed and fun filled – lots of time was spent on the Ghats’ – the banks of the Ganges, and plenty getting lost among the alley ways – and of course some shopping – Varanasi has some real finds! And temple scouting galore – one of our days we went to Sarnath – 10km’s south from the centre of Varanasi and got to (among other things) see where Buddah gave his first sermon. We sat there for ages soaking it all it – a peaceful place – and a nice quick get away from the bustling city centre J Varanasi was an intense and mad adventure – We met some very interesting people, both Indian and Western alike. I saw things I never thought I’d see and experienced a whole new world – where anything, at any time could happen – and it was most likely going to shock you.

Travelers’ Tips:

Great place to stay – The old yogi lodge. It’s right in the heart of it – around the corner from the golden temple. Note that there are many places that have in recent years called themselves the Yogi Lodge – in an attempt to get the travelers to stay with them - as the original is so popular- and for very good reason – great food – great cozy place to stay where you meet people from all over - and this is not always so easy in India – and it’s cheapJ A backpackers paradise!

Food: Megu café serves amazing Japanese food – it’s around the corner from the yogi lodge and is a nice break from the constant curries your be wolfing down J The  German Brown Bread Bakery is sensational – colorful cushions on the floor – very chilled – amazing food –live instrumental Hindu music – a rooftop and the food is out of this world! The Blue Lassi is yummy too – and a great place to sit and watch the people pass you by!

Bye bye Varanasi – it’s been hectic getting to know you!